Beach Days

Even with the bed where you could feel the springs, we stayed in Nazare for the planned five days. It was filled with wandering the shaded cobbled alleys to avoid the surprisingly intense sun, eating tons of grilled fish and a fair amount of Vinho Verde. We climbed the ascensor up to the top of the Sitio, which was purportedly the quieter part of town, with a square, an amazing sardine restaurant, and views of some of the largest waves in the world.

After having had a ridiculous meal at The Yeatman for our anniversary, it felt like nothing could really be as memorable, but oh, was I was wrong.

One of the first nights, we wandered along the main street of Nazare to a bright yellow and wood beamed hotel and restaurant, and experienced our first fish stew. It was filled with three types of fish, I think there was a tail in there. It was tomato-y, bright, lightly specked with the oil of the fish, delivered in a 2 quart dutch oven. Entirely delightful and a wonderful first beach meal.

Shayne had read about the sardine place, so after making a reservation the day before we showed a bit after our scheduled time, as restaurants seemed to ask for, "show up ten, fifteen minutes late, we don't care". Take it slow. I liked this vibe. Not that I like being late, but...don't rush for dinner. Often at home these things feel like a race - get the parking spot, sometimes fast walk, to make the time. Another reason I love Europe, among the countless. Meal times aren't to be rushed into.

The next afternoon before lunch time was over, I popped into two places to make reservations - I learned it's easier to do that than call or hope to get a time. They put up a reserved sign for the whole evening for you.

At 8 o 80 I was greeted by Paulo, who happily took my reservation for later that evening. I'd read about the place from one of the guidebooks, specifically because Shayne and I were a little ready for something other than fish. Paulo remembered me from the afternoon by name, and seated us in a lovely corner of the glassed-in porch, to watch the beachfront go to sleep. I had an amazingly perfect steak, Shayne had a beef stew that made you 'wow' aloud.

d'Adelia was a cozy place in one of the shaded alleyways along the beachfront. We'd noticed it when we stopped for a fish snack and some wine a day or two before. We took home a bottle of port for the few final days of the adventure.